Gotham Digest

Zak to the Future: Q and A with Zak Pelaccio
by Michelle Threadgould
Published on May 1, 2008

Chef Profile

Zak Pelaccio is a quiet celebrity chef. He doesn't have a television show, he’s not judging would-be-chefs on the Food Network, and he’s no diva- but few chefs in New York City could boast such street-cred. From his Chelsea favorite Fatty Crab to the gaggle of restaurants he’s consulted for, Borough Food and Drink, Chop Suey, and London’s Suka, Pelaccio has helped craft menus that are home-spun, funky, and often have Malaysian roots. I interviewed Zak to learn more about his inspiration and what he’s serving up next.

What inspires you as a chef?

A whole range of stimuli - a smell, a simple meal with bright flavors and highly seasoned food, travel.

You have said that visiting and cooking in Malaysia has permanently altered your palette. What spices and flavors are you drawn to, within and outside of Malaysian cuisine?

I love funky, fermented, complex alternatives to salt. Cincalok, fish sauce, blachan, anchovies, and salt fish are some of my favorites. I also like souring agents like assam gelugor, tamarind, green mango pits, and lime.

What do you think has made Fatty Crab such a success?

It's real. The food comes from the heart and the crew. It's awesome. We did it without over- thinking it. We were and still are completely invested in it.

Your pork-belly and pickled watermelon salad is a definite staple on the Fatty Crab menu. Originally you used pig's head instead of pork-belly. As a chef, how do you craft a menu that is both appealing to your audience and representative of your tastes?

I think a menu is most successful when it comes from the heart. A cook is at his best when he can relate to his food without over-intellectualizing it.

You have been the consulting chef for many New York restaurants, including Chop Suey and Borough Food and Drink. What attracts you to these restaurants?

I tried to focus on Fatty Crab, its expansion plans and similar Fatty Crab-esque projects. However, life simply got in the way, and I had less time to spend in the kitchen. So, I accepted a handful of consulting offers that afforded me the time I needed to spend with my family. Now things have settled down and I can focus on all things Fatty.

A lot of people have a hard time wrapping their brains around the idea of a "consulting chef." I've been hired to write menus, develop concepts and assemble kitchen crews. From Borough Food & Drink to Chop Suey, I've been able to work with some incredibly talented people, participate in fantastic projects, and learn a tremendous amount throughout the process. My recent experience at Chop Suey was especially rewarding. Each person in our kitchen crew was at least 10 years older than the average line cook and after a lot of retraining and hard work on their part the restaurant received a star from The New York Times. I am proud of them.

The downside of consulting is that you don't have control over the final product. For me, that's been a difficult lesson to learn.

You have been the focus of many New York food blogs. Eater, Grub Street, and the Gothamist to name a few. How have you dealt with the rave reviews and harsh criticisms of your work?

I learned a few years ago that if I'm going to be doing what I love in New York, I must accept that people are going to write, gossip and blog about both the good and the bad. You simply can't control it. This is New York, it's media central! I only ask that people fact check before publishing or posting their thoughts.

Which New York chefs or restaurants do you respect and love?

I respect all the folks who put so much love, time, and energy into this profession.

What culinary ventures lie ahead of you?

I'm very happy to say that it's time for me to get back to my Fatty projects: the new Fatty Crab on Broadway between 76th and 77th and Fatty 'Cue, a collaboration with Robbie Richter, formerly of Hill Country in Williamsburg. Fatty 'Cue blends traditional southern style barbecuing techniques (cooking with wood smoke) and a Penninsular Malay palate. It's a bar dedicated to dark spirits and rock n' roll. I'll be there. Yes, I'm the chef.